______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ ___ _ _______ _______ _ _____ _____ _ _____ _ ___ | _ | / \ | || || | | ___|| ___|| || ___|| | | _ \ ||_|| / _ \ |--| |--||--| |--|| | | |___ | |___ | || |___ | | || \ \ | _< / /_\ \ | | | | | | | ___|| ___|| || ___|| | || | | ||_|| / _____ \ | | | | | |____ | |___ | | | || |___ | |___ ||_/ / |___|/_/ \_\ |_| |_| |______||_____||_| |_||_____||_____||___/ ___ _ ___ _____ ___ _ _ ____ _ __ _ _ | _ | / \ | _ \ | ___|| _ || \ / || _ | / \ | \ ||| \ / | ||_|| / _ \ || \ \ | | || ||||\\ //||| |_|| / _ \ ||\ \ || \ \/ / | _< / /_\ \ || | | | | || |||| \\// ||| __| / /_\ \ || \ \|| \ / ||_|| / _____ \ ||_/ / | |___ ||_|||| \/ ||| | / _ \ || \ | || |___|/_/ \_\|___/ |_____||___||| |||_| /___/ \___\|| \_| || ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ === Multi-player strategy guide for the PS3 Version: 1.00 By: Scott Sawyer (A Simple Fox) Email: DaikazokuThe505@gmail.com Date of Creation: 6/27/09 Date of last update: 9/12/09 Copyright 2009 Scott Sawyer === +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ | [M0] Table of contents | +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ [M0] Multi-player [M1] Unlocks [M2] Kits [M3] Tactics [M4] Point system [L0] Legal/copyright information [L1] Credits [L2] Version history === --- Introduction This guide was made to help out newcomers to BattleField: Bad Company's online multiplayer mode. It is more or less a beginners' “How To” guide for each Kit, Map and Unlock. As well as some generally proven tactics that can and will come in handy on the field. So if you've never played online and need a step in the right direction, or if you're a veteran of the series just looking for a new take on the maps, feel free to look around. And if you have any questions, comments, advice or corrections for the guide, I would greatly appreciate it if you E-mail me. Thank you. +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ | [M1] Unlockables | +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ Just as the name of the section describes, this section explains all the unlocakbles you can get in on-line multiplayer. There are three types of unlockable weapons in Bad Company: Gold weapons, Find all fives and Credit unlocks. Each are acquired in there own different way. Golden weapons are obtained in two different ways. You can ether level up your profile till you hit level 25 or you can buy the gold edition of Battlefield and get them right off the bat at level one. There is no difference between the two and that's the only two ways to get them. There is one gold weapon per kit and it usually has more balanced stats then the beginning weapons. The credit unlocks are very simple to unlock. As you level up, you gain credits. Use them to “buy” your new weapons. This is the only section that you can unlock items in. it doesn't matter which one you unlock or in what order you unlock them in. You will get enough credits too unlock everything so don't sweat it if you pick the wrong one by accident. Last is the “Find all Five” (FAF) weapons. These weapons are acquired when you go through a little quest created by the developers. They did this to reward players that showed extra interest in the game and players previous played battlefield games. Most of them became unattainable but DICE has released redeem codes so that 4 out of 5 FAFs are now available to everyone. Look at their sections for further details. Each kit has three starter weapons (not shown here), one golden weapon, one FAF weapon, two credit weapons and one credit item. --- [M1.1] Assault kit --- ---Gold weapon AN94 Abakan --- Credit weapons M16 XM8 --- Credit item Life-2 -- Find All Five FN F2000 the FN F2000 is the hardest to unlock. You have to have registered for 2 battlefield games ( bad company counts as one so you only need one more) and have an active account with EA. If you have these two, go to the veterans program from the Bad Company's website and follow their instructions. Note: There is no “Unlock Code” released for this Gun. The ONLY way to get it is though the Veteran program above. --- [M1.2] Demolition Kit --- --- Gold weapon SPAS15 --- Credit weapons SPAS12 NS2000 --- Credit item ATM-00 -- Find All Five USAS 12 the USAS 12 is a lot like the FN F2000. But all you have to do is link your PSN account with EA account. after you check your stats on-line at Bad Company's website, you should have it unlocked next time you log in your PSN account. Note: DICE has released a redeem code for this weapon. Unlock code: aw3somef1rep0wer --- [M1.3] Reconnaissance Kit --- --- Gold weapon VSS --- Credit weapons SUV Barret M95 --- Credit Item LZ-537 -- Find All Five QBU88 The QBU88 is a sniper rifle that can only be obtained if you have a redeem code. These redeem codes are sent to you if you pre-ordered battlefield: bad company. This means the sniper is no longer available unless you can get a code from someone. Once a code is used, it can't be used again. Note: DICE has released a redeem code for this weapon. Unlock code: your3mynextt4rget --- [M1.4] Specialist Kit --- --- Gold weapon XM8C --- Credit Weapons UMP PP2000 --- Credit Items C4 -- Find All Five UZI The UZI is obtained by maxing out your level in the demo. Simply keep ranking up till you hit the cap. The demo servers are still up so you still have an opportunity to get it, but not many players are there anymore. Note: DICE has released a redeem code for this weapon. Unlock code: cov3r1ngthecorn3r --- [M1.5] Support Kit --- --- Gold weapon MG30 --- Credit weapons XM8 LMG MG36 --- Credit Items MRTR-5 -- Find All Five M60 M60 is unlocked when you sign up for the newsletter. You will receive a redeem code in your e-mail. It's very simple to do, just go to the battlefield's website and hit “Newsletter sign up”. Note: DICE has released a redeem code for this weapon. Unlock code: try4ndrunf0rcov3r +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ | [M2] Kits | +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ --- Introduction The kits section is designed to help new players understand the role of each kit in the game and how to use them effectively. All the kits rely on each other is it is important to understand how they work together as well as being able to use them yourself. Mastering all five can go a long way to archiving victory in any scenario. --- [M2.1] Assault Motto: “Velox Fortis Letalis” (“Swift, Brave and Deadly”) --- --- Intro The Assault is the least defined of all the kits because they are the “jack of all trades” kit. If I had to say what their role is, I would have to say it's more geared to anti-personal then anything else. Assaults are very good at plowing through enemy ground units, just keep them away from tanks. Surprisingly enough, they work better for defending rather then attacking. If they have a demolition with them, they can hold a bottle neck for a while. Many people don't like the assault because other classes can be just as effective at anti-personal. But unlike other classes, they are useful at all ranges and can heal themselves which means they are self reliant. --- Glorified door opener All assault rifles have a grenade luncher attachment. There is no difference between them, just in the name. Unlike most shooters, the grenade luncher does very little damage. It's splash is also very low for an explosive but it's range is decent at least. You wouldn't be using it for kills thats for sure, unless they are already at critical health. It is just as the topic implies, its a glorified door opener. You use it to blow open walls to get through or to expose someone behind cover. Sometimes if you are lucky you can kill them behind the wall, but that doesn't happen very often. If you think you can use it against armor, WRONG! It does pitiful damage against tanks, however it does hurt Humvees and buggies nicely. Your better off with hand grenades when it comes to killing but the glorified door opener will come in handy against targets behind cover.. --- Life 2 (literally) This is probably the most helpful thing for an assault, autonomy. Now what do I mean by that? I mean that the Assault is independent and can take care of itself. With Life 2 the assault never needs to worry about finding a support and it doesn't need to worry about taking damage when behind enemy lines. They can also move more freely then specialists. Think about it, a specialist has to be careful when jumping off buildings and not hurt themselves. An assault can take fall damage all day and not worry about it. Life 2 can bewilder enemies when you hid behind a rock (or such cover). They come to finish you off and you peek back around with full health to light them up. An assault player without Life 2 is an assault player that is usually dead more then alive. Life 2 was the first unlock point I spent and has to this day has been the most useful of all the unlocks to me. --- This is my rifle, this is my gun, this is where I have lots of fun. (corniness intended) All rifles in the assault kit are assault rifles (yea... go figure...). All assault rifles come with a grenade launcher attachment. The only difference between them is in the name. The rifles themselves have good stopping power but nothing stellar; compact Assault rifles and SMGs usually pack more of a punch (for some odd reason). The one thing that really helps the rifle become useful is that it can be used at all ranges. While the shotgun and compacts rely on close and the sniper on far, the assault can be used in any situation. Used strategically with life 2, you can be almost unkillable on the battlefield. But you have to use it to complement your other items in your kit before it really shines. For example: you come across a house and you don't know whether its occupied by hostiles. If there is a window you can lob a hand grenade inside and flush out anyone hiding. Say after you do that they start shooting at you from the second floor window, shoot a M203 (or such) to blow open the wall and then finish them while their dazed. If you happen to get hit, dive behind a rock and Life 2 yourself to get right back in the game before they can regroup. This all sounds well and dandy but the #1 thing that kills assaults is tanks. If you see a tank, run! Your rifle does nothing to it. Yes your grenades do a little damage, but they only do about 8 damage a nade. An assault versus a tank will always lose. They also have a little trouble close range with shotguns and compacts. So know your limitations with the assault rifle and stick to anti-personal only kills. The assault is a great kit when used correctly. --- [M2.2] Demolition Motto: “Peto Et Eradico” (“Seek and Destroy”) --- --- Intro As you might have guessed, this kit specializes in destroying stuff. If you're like Haggard and love to see things explode, this is the kit for you. The Demolition has the anti-vehicle role much in the way the assault has the anti-personal role. And with the Demolition's array of explosives, that shouldn't be to hard. The demo also has a shotgun which has very impressive stopping power and range. You should familiarize yourself with the Demolition kit because you'll find a lot of vehicle maps call for it. Not too mention its fun to use. --- the Demo man Like I just said above, the demolition role is anti-vehicle. Taking down those pesky tanks can go along way, just ask anyone. Your main weapon for this job is the rocket luncher. This bad boy is the most accurate rocket luncher I have ever seen in any game... ever. Hell! You can snipe snipe snipers with this thing! It's draw back is that this thing has no splash. Yea, I know right? No splash? No splash. Unless you hit the them dead in the chest, it will do almost no damage. I guess the programmers didn't want it to use over used or maybe their logic is that it's an anti-armor rocket. Whatever the reason, stick to blowing up vehicles. One or two well placed rockets will stop a transport. Tanks however can sometimes take forever to die. To the point where it's sometimes quicker to just run up and chuck a mine under the treads. The best place to aim a rocket is the rear of a tank. For more info, see the tank damage chart provided in the tactics section. [SEE M3.1] --- I'll AT your mine after playing demolition for a while, you'll soon realize that Anti Tank (AT) mines are your best weapon against a tank. AT mines take out all vehicles in one shot when run over. You can't chuck them very far so you have to either: place them ahead of time, or run up and throw them under the vehicle. If you place them ahead of time, always keep one on you in case a tank tries to run you over. If you see a tank backing up, throw it at your feet and try to lure them toward you. Try not to mine large areas as the chances of catching a tanks lowers. Go for concentrated areas where tanks have to funnel in to continue. When used in a sneaky fashion, AT mines can single handedly stop a column of tanks so it's usefulness should not be underestimated. You can also use them for car bombs which I'll explain in the tactics section [SEE M3.4] --- This is my Boom-Stick! Ah yes... the shotgun. Truly a classic weapon. The shotgun is the mirror opposite of the sniper rifle, one is single shot accuracy from a mile away, the other is a spray of hot lead for 30 feet. Love it or hate it, the shotgun is one of the most feared (or should I say hated) weapons on the battlefield. There are three types of shotguns in battlefield that play differently from each other and trade off strengths and weaknesses. The pump, the semi and the auto. The pump shotgun is the one everyone is familiar with. Nothing like turning the conner to drop to the ground dead before you can react. If you are going with the pump, the two I recommend is the SPAS 12 or the NS2000. Both are pumps but effective at different ranges. The SPAS 12 has more spray then the NS2000 and works better at close range because they spray allows you to just aim toward them and fire without worrying about aiming. The NS2000 has more of a “big bullet” feel to its shell because of it's low spread. It's more suited for longer range shotgunning then the other pumps. The semis are kinda unremarkable. They are the balance between the pump and the auto. You need to fire them in quick succession to get the kill and it takes a few shots. Don't expect the nice “Ker-plow! Dead!” feel that the pumps have. As for the auto, the USAS12, it's more of an assault rifle then a shotgun. Hold down the trigger and it continually fires. Perfect for medium range combat thats too far for the other shotguns, and if you miss... so what? You got plenty more in your clip. Thats right, clip. Instead of loading one shell at a time you can load them all at once. While this is faster, you can't shoot till your done unlike the others. No shotgun is better then the other, it's all a matter of preference. Pick the one thats going to get the job done. When I'm a demo I find myself switching around my weapons more than any other kit. --- [M2.3] Reconnaissance Motto: “Velox Silens Letalis” (“Swift, Silent and Deadly”) --- --- intro Reconnaissance (aka Sniper) is a specialized role for the squad. Just as the name implies, you are meant to scout ahead of your squad. A recon, can really rack up some assists and light up the enemy positions on your team's mini-map. A sniper inside (or just outside) a base can really hem down an advance from the enemy. They also take out tanks from a distance, which can help when a demo can't get close enough. They can make great respawn points when they are close to the enemy base. As useful as snipers are, too many of them on your team can put you at a disadvantage. I suggest no more then about 2 snipers in a map. If you see 5 snipers on your side... don't be one too... --- BOOM! HEADSHOT! if you are using a bolt action rifle, patience is key. All rounds do about 90 damage to everywhere on the body. So if you want that want that beautiful one hit kill, you have to aim for the head. Every shot should be a head shot, why? I'll explain. If you are behind enemy lines, it is important that you don't just shoot off and give yourself away. If it's a head shot then they will get no damage recital and that will make finding you that much harder. You can aim for the body if they are already spotted. Why? If they are already spotted, nine times out of ten they are already hurt, which means 90 damage will be enough to kill them very easily. You have to eject your shell after every shot and that can ruin your pan if you miss. You will need to be very good at leading shots if you are going to hit running targets. --- Death from above Not only can Recons kill enemy foot soldiers from a distance but they can also kill vehicles from a distance. Didn't see that coming... Anyway using a laser designator, they can paint any vehicle or emplacement and call a guided missile to fall on it. When you paint a target, the missile just doesn't fall on it. You have to manually guide the missile toward the target. It takes awhile to get used to but when you do, it can be the best anti-vehicle weapon in the game. The problem with it is that when you paint a vehicle, a warning notifies the target that you are trying to paint them. Usually when they hear this they either bail out or do some tricky driving to make you lose your connection. A popular and sneaky way around this is to paint a emplacement near your target, and guide it into the real one. The enemy vehicle has no idea your about to strike them because the alarm only goes of if you are actively painting them. Try not to go for foot solders because the splash is very small and it can be difficult to hit them dead in the head. If they bail out, just destroy the vehicle like you were going to. At least you'll get some points rather then risking a miss and having them hop right back in. --- I see you... The first time I used it, I couldn't figure out what it did. It looked like a grenade but it didn't explode and just made a beeping noise. Little did I know this was the beginning of a beautiful relationship. The motion sensor grenade is one of your more useful squad based gadgets. It sends out pulses that lights up enemy in the area and puts them on the map. This can be very helpful to both you and all of your teammates. Ever get that weird feeling when you are sniping, you know, you feel like your not alone? Well, pop one of these down and see if someone is sneaking up on you. How many times have I been saved by throwing down a sensor and seeing a red dot creeping behind me with his blade out. Also, popping a sensor into buildings and chock points can really help your teammates figure out where the enemy is attacking from. On small maps or tight building to building combat this can turn the tide of a battle. Lastly it also makes for a great way to look for specialists. Pop a few around your base to make sure they are not getting the drop on you. --- [M2.4] Specialist Motto: “Velox Silens Letalis” (“Swift, Silent and Deadly”) --- --- Intro The name “Specialist” really doesn't quite capture what they are. They don't really specialize in anything, other then kicking your ass. Like the Recon, the specialist requires stealth and teamwork to be of an advantage to the team. They are a little bit of a mix between classes. They can take out foot soldiers almost as well as an assault. They can take on armored vehicles like a demolition and can identify enemy units for other to take them out like Recons. They do these jobs so well, that most people wounder if you really need the other kits in the game. They have their ups and downs like any other class but if played right, can wreck an enemies lines in no time. --- Silent and deadly All of the weapons that the specialists used are suppressed. Suppressed weapons in this game allow you to shoot hostile players without alerting them to your position. Because of this perk combined with the fact that the specialist weapons are very powerful at close range, makes it that sneaking into an enemy base is child's play. If an opposing Recon doesn't pop Motion Sensors every now and then, you'll find yourself behind their lines more then they are. This allows you to take your time and pick off priority targets. Destroying objectives with the C4 or capturing flags before anyone even realizes your there. And if someone does come by, pop pop pop, and they are down before they can react. Keep in mind of course, that they kit is only as sneaky as you are. Going through the front door all Rambo style, isn't exactly sneaky. --- C4 & you C4, composition 4 or tasty cakes. Whatever you want to call it, no one can deny C4 is one of the most useful weapons on the battlefield. You can set up one of them at a time and detonate or set them all up and detonate the whole pile, it's up to you. If you plan to use this weapon you need to plan ahead with your attacks. You won't be using it on foot solders (it's impractical and your suppressed gun is more helpful) but vehicles are its prime target. Now there are two ways to get a vehicle. Have it almost run you over (or run up to it yourself), throw a pack on it, take a few steps back and BOOM! Bye bye tank! They other way is to place them along the ground like AT mines and detonate them as the vehicles come. This is less popular because it's hard to funnel vehicles in one spot and you waste most of the packs in the process. On a side note; One C4 pack is an instant kill for all vehicles, you don't need to go overboard if you see a heavy tank. C4 on objectives can be particularly effective. Instead of planting a charge you have to watch in Gold Rush, you can just throw all your C4 on it and take out a HUGE chunk of its health. Be care though, if you die you can't detonate the C4 when you respawn. You used to be able to do this before the Conquest patch and it made taking out the crates insanely easy. It was one of the better kept secret glitches of the game and it's a shame it was found out. But don't get your hopes down, the patch just turned the C4 from a broken weapon to a excellent weapon. Which can be good or bad depending on who you ask. --- “I know you like Christmas trees but they're for vehicles, not snipers.” The tracer gun, another weapon I couldn't figure out how to use when I first started playing. I thought it was a tranquilizer gun and would run up to people and shoot it at them point blank. Needless to say I died a lot and I learned what it really did later on. It still think it would be cool to have one but enough of my reminiscing, lets talk about the tracer gun. The tracer gun shoots a small sticky object that blinks onto a nearby target. When it hits a vehicle it is “marked” or “traced”. When this happens, all friendly Demolition rocket launchers home in on said “traced” vehicle. This can be very helpful for your team because anything you trace will not disappear from the map and it makes the Demolition's job that much easier for them. You even get points for helping out in this way. If you can sneak into the enemy's base and trace all the vehicles you have a Enormous advantage over the other team. And lets not forget helicopters. Tracing one of those will give you the gratitude of all the demos on your team and then some! Unfortunately, I do have to remind people that tracers are for vehicles and not people. Some people online like to make “Christmas trees” out of their teammates. This is done by tracing a friendly sniper multiple times to make him blink and by comparison, look like a Christmas tree due to their Gilly suits. While this is a past time to those who dislike snipers it is counter-productive to the team as a whole. You are wasting tracers on teammates that can really help out the team. You also make it so that your snipers get picked off by other snipers easily (big red glowing light in the woods? Thats not noticeable...) and finally if you shoot them in the face, they can't see. Which makes sniping for them, extremely hard. While some people do it to show how useless they think the sniper is, they ironically make the sniper in question less helpful then before. If you are going to make Christmas trees, at least do it around the holiday. --- [M2.5] Support Motto: “Luncti Vincemus” (“Together we Conquer”) --- --- intro The most unique of all the kits is the Support. Their job is to help the other kits with living. Simple enough right? Well, it's not. As it turns out, not many people let you help them online. Most will run away from you or just kill you and take the health kits themselves. Supports take a lot of slack for not doing their job, well prove them wrong. A smart and helpful support player is a great asset to any team. Especially when you are running low on respawn tickets in the different game modes. They can heal, repair and call in mortar strikes while giving supportive fire. They hit the nail on the head when they made this kit. --- Get up silly, there's chocolate pudding back at the base! The med kit / health pack is like the life 2 only it heals a little slower and over a small area (apposed to just healing the user). When you throw one down, any teammate that comes by will receive health. That's good right? You can just throw them everywhere and your teammates will never die! Nope, enemies can also sometimes pick up these packs making it counter productive. For Example: I remember rushing into a room and killing a support guarding the objective. He had already laid down health packs when I got him. Every time someone would come to get me away from the objective, I would kill them and be healed by the kits that the enemy support laid down. This isn't to say not to use them, it's just that you have to be careful that they aren't used against you. Also a quick note, if you are a support and you see a friendly in front of you, staring at you. Throw them a health pack. The three international signs for “give me health” is 1.) standing in front of you, looking you right in the eye. 2.) jumping in front of you. 3.) crouching up and down in front of you. If you don't give them health, some friendlies will shoot at you to get your attention, others will go as far as kill you for your kit. So throw them a pack, you'll live, they'll live and you get 15 points out of it. It's a win-win-win situation. Another side note, pay attention to your mini-map when playing a support. It will have a blinking health symbol near wounded friendlies. And I'm sure they will be very happy with you if you took time to hop down to give them some health. --- call me a “grease monkey” one more time... This is almost along the same exact lines as the health pack only with vehicles. Your power tool can quickly heal friendly and neutral vehicles when used on them. Unlike the health pack, you can only repair one vehicle at a time. The power tool can be used to “Deconstruct” hostile vehicles as well. It's a little dangerous but Deconstructing a tank is a nice way to panic the driver inside. That and there is sometime funny about seeing “You Power-Tool-Symbol Otherguy” on the ticker. You can also Power Tool foot soldier and kill them that way to if you want to humiliate them. Make sure you take a picture of that though, it's always funny to show people! Anyway, just like the health packs, when a wounded friendly vehicle is nearby you will see a blinking wrench symbol on your mini-map. Take the time to help them and not only to you help the war effort a little bit but you get this cool 15 points as well. --- when it rains, it pours... Mortar Strikes are an interesting and useful weapon but you don't think they behave like the Howitzer. You aim them at a target and hold down the fire button until the coordinates are relayed. Unlike the Laser designator which requires a vehicle or emplacement to be painted, mortars can be called in any where. Also unlike the designator, it isn't controlled, where ever you aimed it, it will fall. Needless to say, be careful where you aim it. If you are hiding in a bush and are trying to call in a mortar, you might accidentally call the strike on the bush you're hiding in. It happens more then you think. The problem is it's not exactly accurate, it calls in multiple rounds to land near your target and if it's moving you'll probably miss. It does very nice damage to foot soldiers but a pitiful amount to armored targets. My advice it use it to destroy cover and clear off rooftops. Also try to use it in hemmed in areas. While the enemy is moving toward cover, it can give your teammates the chance to make their move. When used correctly it can be a very helpful item. When used incorrectly, you can rack up team kills just as fast as a Howitzer. +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ | [M3] Tactics | +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ --- Introduction This section is a quick overview of various tactics that can be used in just about any level. Most of (nearly all of) the tips were given to me by some very experienced players of the game so play close attention to the advice they give you. This is especially true if you want to master vehicle combat. --- [M3.1] Tank Damage Chart --- (All Credit for tank info goes to TheRazgrizDemon) This is a small chart to illustrate how tanks give and receive damage. It's not so much a tactic but it's very useful information to know, especially if you are a Demo or tank driver. Keep in mind that all these figures are not set in stone and can fluctuate due to hit detection and splash damage. Note: this is all RPGs and all tanks. They do the same damage, the only difference is the name. - RPG vs Light Tank Front: 38 Side: 44 Rear: 73 Turret:24 - RPG vs Heavy Tank Front: 24 Side: 36 Rear: 67 Turret:24 - Light Tank vs Light Tank Front: 8 Side: 8 Rear: 8 Turret:6 - Light Tank vs Heavy Tank Front: 4 Side: 5 Rear: 9 Turret:4 - Heavy Tank vs Light Tank Front: ? Side: ? Rear: ? Turret:? - Heavy Tank vs Heavy Tank Front: 30 Side: 46 Rear: 78 Turret:30 --- [M3.2] Tank Tips --- (All Credit goes to TheRazgrizDemon. I edited it for better flow.) --- Heavy tank. If you are in a tank, you are slow and you will get shot at. So it should be no surprise to you that you'll take damage from all directions. If your going to drive a tank, it is helpful to play as a support. That way you can retreat to a safe distance and repair your tank when necessary. Now, depending on your personnel preference, you may find it hard to judge when to get up close and when to stay back. The main gun has a long range, and is very powerful, you can take out troops, stationary guns, tanks, choppers, and gold crates with it. If you stay back, you can avoid incoming fire and act as a buffer for advancing troops, If you get up close you can use buildings as cover however, enemy infantry can hide behind walls as well. They can use this to your disadvantage and get close to you. It's always a good idea to take a gunner with you for close anti infantry/chopper support. As a tank, you take damage differently depending on where you are hit. The front of the tank is the most resistant, so in any engagements, point the front of the tank towards the enemy. One RPG does 24 damage to the front compared to 67 when hit in the rear. When fighting enemy tanks, as well as keeping the front to your enemy, exploit the week spots of other tanks. More damage can be done to the rear than the side, and to the ride rather than the front. Use this to your advantage then aiming your shots. Jeeps, buggies and infantry all get blown up in one shot, so just aim and fire. Splash damage should kill anything near in case you miss. --- Light Tank A few of the same rules apply as the heavy tank, except you are faster. Use this speed to get away from any bad situations. Your cannon is a great anti infantry weapon, but against heavy tanks you don't stand much of a chance. Either get away from it, or use your speed to circle it and hit him from behind. It's best to just give fire support however to another heavy tank. --- [M3.3] Attack Helicopter --- (All Credit goes to ic3b3rgslim. I just edited it a little.) Take out the AA cannon first, even if there is nobody on it. Even if you just take that out and need to heal the chopper immediately after, do it anyways just to have an advantage on your next attack run. If you don't know your gunner, and he isn't a support troop, then make sure you choose the support kit so you can heal the chopper with the support kits drill. Many times your target will be moving, so be sure to lead your target. What i do is shoot one or two missiles to get an idea of how fast the tank is going, and then i begin to unload. If you see a tank standing still, then shoot FFARs very slowly, and very accurately at him. By the time the 4th or 5th FFAR hits he will probably be moving. This is when you move in close and unload the entire volley. If you do this correctly, you should have nearly a full volley loaded in the chopper, and you'll have already hit him with 4-6 FFARs. This should kill the tank, and if the driver hops out, give your gunner a clean shot to kill the soldier and get on with your attacking. Use this tactic on stationary vehicles like the AA gun as well. I have taken out the AA gun before he has started shooting simply because he did not have time to move the gun to shoot towards me before he died. If you get a chance, one thing to practice is flying very low to the ground. You will see some less advanced pilots hover at the top level of the map, while they let their gunner do the work. This is a decent tactic, however the detriments outweigh the benefits. If you hold a hover up high like that you will be prone to any and every type of fire, and a hovering target is a rocket magnet. If you learn to fly low, you can get away from gunfire much more quickly simply because most of the enemy team cannot see you. This also works as an approach tactic. If you don't want the AA to see you, go to the far right on Oasis and fly a few feet off the ground. When u get to the small building, hover behind it, and when you're ready, unload your volley on the AA. This is useful even if the AA sees you at first, because he cannot hit you behind the building. You can do similar things on End of the Line by memorizing AA gun locations and coming at angles that the AA gunner cannot see from. Another more advanced tank tactic calls for a keen eye. When you start shooting a tank and he is moving and then stops when you hit him, watch the symbol above the tank to see if it changes slightly. This will mean that the driver has moved to the 50 caliber machine gun on top of the tank to try and mow you down. If you see this, then get low and get fast as fast as possible. The worst thing you can do in that situation is hover. The way around this is to have your gunner aim for the top of the tank. The gunner of the tank is exposed so if the gun of the apache lands on the top of the tank a few times in the right place, you might not get a vehicle kill, but you will get a kill and save your behind at the same time. Speaking of behind, the best place to hit a tank is in the rear. The light tanks seem to take damage evenly, but the heavy tanks are VERY weak in the rear. Even if you don't get direct rockets onto the tank, make sure to hit NEAR the back, because the splash damage of a missile to the back of a tank is greater than a direct hit to the front or side or top of the tank. --- [M3.4] Car Bombs --- Car Bombing or Road side bombs are a very effective and sneaky way to stop enemies from using vehicles, while still allowing your buddies to use them. If your a demo, place one of your AT mines underneath the vehicle. If you get it right, no matter where they move when they get in, BOOM! Free kill. You can really rack up kills if you sneak into the enemy base and place the mines under all the vehicles in the base. You can also set one up yourself. How do you do that? Grab a tank with full health and drive it near the enemy base. Get out and place a mine underneath it like normal and leave. As long as you don't die, the mine will stay there. Think about it, if you see a perfectly good tank sitting there, wouldn't you take it? I would hop right in, never thinking about crouching to look underneath, and I would be dead. The same thing can be done with C4 but you have to watch it to know when to detonate it. Also if you use C4 you can't use another till you set it off the first unless you want to blow it prematurely. A good thing about C4 is that you can hide it in some sneaky places. In the grill or inside the turret are some good spots. You can use either but I find the AT one to be more effective. --- [M3.5] Getting health as a specialist/reconnaissance/demolition --- Normally the way for these classes to heal themselves is to find a support that will throw a health pack at them. But if there are no supports in the area you can still heal yourself if you find their bags. I don't see people using this trick as much as they should. As it makes life easier not having to worry about straying to far from your supports. If you kill a support and take damage, use his kit to your advantage. Just make use the area is safe before doing so. You'll get caught with your pants down if an enemy comes around the corner and you're fiddling with the kit switching. This trick also works well with assault kits because of their life 2. I actually prefer it because the life 2 heals much quicker then the health packs. --- [M3.6] Neutralize Vehicles --- If you have time and are lucky, you can make it so that the enemy team will never be able to use a vehicle again. if you see an enemy vehicle, take it and drive out of bounds with it. Bail out and sprint back to safety. If you do it right, they can't get at the tank without killing themselves. If they get in the vehicle and suicide, it will respawn. But nine times out of ten, they give up on it. Since it never gets destroyed, it takes forever to respawn. So you just neutralized it and made it a royal pain to get it back. --- [M3.7] Ninja Kit --- While this tactic is generally disliked, it is a very effective way to get dogtags. The “Ninja kit” is not a new kit, but a way of using the Recon kit and abuse it's motion sensor balls. You don't use the Sniper rifle, pistol or JDAM. You only use the Motion and the knife. The tactic is to hide in a high foot traffic area and pop motion balls around. Sneak up and knife unsuspecting enemies. Because the Knife is One-Hit-Kill, as long as you get 10 meters away, you are almost guaranteed a knife kill. This tactic is dangerous if you are not good at knifing or are not good at ambushing people. But a good “Ninja” can get up to 15 knives a round. Warning: This can make you become TOO reliant on motion balls and unable to Knife (or worse... kill) without them. Exercise moderation when using this strategy. +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ | [M4] Point system | +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ In a nutshell, this is how you gain points, which translates into experience. The more points you get, the more your helping out the team, it's that simple. --- All Kits, All Game-modes --- + 10 +(0 to 25) points knifing an enemy. (you get as much extra points as is their level.) +10 points killing an enemy destroying a hostile vehicle +6 points avenge award (killing a teammate's killer in less then a few seconds of the kill) +5 points savor award (killing an enemy that was attacking a teammate) Get a head shot with a weapon +3 points Get an assist (damage an enemy and have a teammate finish them off) -10 points damaging a teammate -15 points Killing a teammate --- Specialist --- +3 points trace a vehicle and have a demolition shoot a rocket at it. --- Support --- +15 points heal a teammate Repair a friendly vehicle --- Gold Rush --- +30 points Destroying an objective (if attacking) +10 points defusing a charge objective damage (if attacking) +3 points objective defend (kill an enemy near the objective? ) -10 points Objective damage (if defending) --- Conquest --- +30 points Capture a Flag +10 points Assist in capturing a Flag +3 points Objective Defend (kill an enemy near a friendly flag?) +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ | [L0] Legal/copyright information (the boring necessary stuff) | +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ This Guide is published by Scott Sawyer This means that if you wish to: display, copy, edit, link or in anyway use the information contained within this article, you must gain permission from me to do so. I have no problem with anyone wishing to use this guide, to help them with the game itself. However, I do have a problem if: you are stealing our work and passing it off as your own or using our work for your own monetary profit. Please respect my hard work and the other walk-through creators out there. Thank you. The only sites that have permission to host this guide is: http://www.Gamefaqs.com/ http://www.daikazokuclan.com/ other sites, such as other FAQ/Walk-through type sites or our own personal sites, will be added at our discretion. +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ | [L1] Credits | +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ Ah... the credits. The part of the paper everyone skips over because it's boring. The only reason you would read it, is if you were looking for you name to tell all your buddies how cool you are. Well we wouldn't be able to write this walk-through without the help of these cool people, pointing out our mistakes and overlooks. So thanks to all who helped! Scott S => Writer From GameFaqs.com: ic3b3rgslim => For all the advice on the helicopters. It's nice to have a veteran pilot helping out! TheRazgrizDemon => For all the help with the tanks! Samehadamaru => For help with the Tactics section. Special thanks to: Answerbag.com for the Latin translations DICE for making a kick ass game. +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ | [L2] Version history | +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ Version 1.00 (9/12/09) => Finished sections. May add Gold-Rush and Conquest maps later. Version 0.80 (7/2/09) => Finished Introduction. Finished Unlockables Section. Added Tactics to Tactics Section. Finished Points Section. Version 0.50 (6/27/09) => Separated Multi-player Sections from Main guide to make this FAQ. Still incomplete. ---